- 1 PCB populated with SMT components
- 1 ADNS2620 Optical Mouse sensor
- 1 Clear plastic lens for ADNS sensor
- 1 Mouse Wheel encoder
- 2 Red pushbutton switches
- 2 7 pin female headers
- 1 24MHz resonator
- 4 plastic Feet
- 1 Mouse wheel
- 1 Mouse wheel holder
The ADNS2620 sensor has a small piece of kapton tape covering the lens. Do Not remove the kapton tape until directed to by these instructions. It will protect the lens from any random goo or dust getting in there.
Solder the ADNS2620 optical sensor. It is VERY important that this part gets soldered at the right height on the board! Incorrect vertical position of the ADNS will cause the mouse to fail!
Place the PCB flat side down on a smooth surface, and then put the ADNS legs into the PCB holes. Make sure that the ends of the ADNS legs are touching the surface of the table. The ADNS will be 'standing up' above the PCB. NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE ADNS! Pin 1 is marked by a small round circle in one corner of the IC, and Pin 4 is marked by the large round circle that I'm pointing to.
Once you have the part oriented correctly and the legs are touching the table top through the PCB holes with the PCB flat on the table top, go ahead and solder each leg from the top.
The blue resonator fits in right next to the ADNS and it doesn't have any orientation. It can go either direction.
The LED is oriented with the long leg toward the middle of the board.
The leads of the LED need to be bent at 90 degrees so that it will point toward the ADNS sensor.
Next, solder in the two 7 pin female headers. The PCB should sit flat on them upside down for easy soldering. Get one leg of each header soldered, and then turn over to board to make sure that the headers are sitting straight. Adjust as necessary by remelting the pin you soldered, then solder the rest of the pins.
The encoder for the mouse wheel only goes in one way. There are two large clip leads on the sides. Make sure that the encoder is inserted all the way so that the base of the encoder sides is touching the top of the PCB.
This will ensure that the wheel and wheel support will fit correctly later.
The two pushbutton switches only fit one way. The legs will snap into the PCB and hold them there for you to solder them.
Now it's time to attach the clear plastic lens to the bottom of the board. FIRST REMOVE THE KAPTON TAPE. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingernail to peel off the kapton tape that covers the ADNS lens.
Then, orient the lens so that the triangular prism is on the side with the LED.
The lens should fit flat against the ADNS lens.
I'm using hot glue to secure the lens to the bottom of the PCB. DO NOT USE CYANOACRYLATE OR CRAZY GLUE IT WILL RUIN THE LENS!
Attach the feet to the PCB from the bottom. Place the feet upright on a table and press the PCB onto them until they snap into the holes.
The clear mouse wheel has a small hex shaft on one end which fits perfectly into the hex hub of the encoder.
Slide the mouse wheel shaft into the encoder hub.
Then, insert the mouse wheel holder into the slots from the bottom of the PCB. be careful when doing this the parts have a snug fit, and if the cradle is not lined up with the wheel hub it might damage the wheel!
The holder will snap into place, and cradle the wheel axle on both sides.
This open-source computer mouse is built around an ATmega32u4 with the Arduino Leonardo bootloader. It has already been programmed with the example sketch from the Mousey library. There are two modes of operation HID and Not-HID. Modes are selected using the slide switch on the left side of the mouse.
When the slide switch is on the side closest to the pad per hole prototyping area (aka DOWN), the mouse is in HID mode. When plugged into a micro USB cable, the mouse will read the sensors (wheel, buttons, optical sensor), and function just like a mouse attached to your computer!
When the slide switch is on the side closest to the 7 pin female header (aka UP), the mouse is in the Not-HID mode. When plugged into a micro USB cable, the mouse will read the sensors (wheel, buttons, optical sensor) and send the data it gets over serial at 115200 baud. You can open any serial terminal to view the data from the mouse.
The mice were packaged with the HID select switch in the HID position. If you plug your mouse in to a computer and it doesn't work like a mouse should, then check to make sure that the HID switch is in HID mode. The small tact switch labeled SW1 is the reset button for the Leonardo. You can switch modes on the fly, and press this reset button to change modes without unplugging your mouse. If all else fails, re-program the mouse with the OpenMouse.ino code from the example in the Mousey Library.
This section is for folks who have the old hardware, and is a guide for assembly.
This was made years ago, and I do have a small pile of parts and PCBs, if anyone is interested, drop me a message in the issues tab.
The image above is of the assembled board, showing where all the parts go. Below are all the parts, with the PCB reference numbers for your reference.
This is a beginner soldering project with a trap! You MUST and that is a big must, follow the same instructions for soldering the Optical Sensor as shown above in the main instructions. That is, you must place the PCB on a flat, heat resistant surface, Then put the Optical Sensor into position so that it's legs are touching the same surface as the PCB through the solder holes. Then, solder the legs from the top of the board. This will position the Optical Sensor exactly at the right height. The only other thing to think about is the LED will need to be bent over at a right angle to shine in the lens, so make sure there is enough lead for the bend when you solder. Also, DON'T USE CYANOACRYLATE TO GLUE THE LENS Use regular old hot glue, or use something else but make sure no glue gets on the business part of the lens. Bad, very bad.
This old project has less going on than the main project above. To make this work, please use the MouseEye library contained in the folder called MouseEye in this repository. It should work. Any issues, put them into the issue hole.
Have Fun!