PCB

[geraldFS]

Hi there,

I took the liberty of creating a new board based on your schematic.

What is different:
a) WEMO D1 Mini is supplied with 5V
either with external feed, or if two jumpers are closed with the 5V from the Mirconova

b) the 5V voltage is suppressed / smoothed by means of capacitors
C1 = 220µF
C2 = ~ 100nF
C3 = ~ 10nF
C4 = ~ 10þF

I have always noticed that when the voltage is not clean, the ESP now and then produces strange errors.

c) In addition, the 3.3V voltage can also (if necessary) be eliminated / smoothed
C5 = ~ 100nf
C6 = ~ 10þF

d) The 18V are brought out separately if an external DC / DC module is to be used.

e) Pin D6 is brought out to connect a 1Wire temperature sensor (e.g. room temperature remote) for free use

f) Pins D8 and D7 are prepared for further use (i2C bus), as are taps in front of 3.3V / GND

The software implementation of the 1Wire connection would have to be added.

The hardware layout has not yet been tested, I will first have a few manufactured and tested.
There are probably brave ones who check it and test it if necessary.

Regards

Gerald

VCC 5 = GND/VCC5/VCC5 screw (terminal therefore 3 pin)
VCC = Jumper close 5V from Mirconova / open externe VCC
GND = Jumper close GND (Mirconova)
GND | 18V = GND / 18V from Mirconova (screw terminal therefore 3 pin)
SERIAL = From Mirconova (18V | 5V | GND | Stove Serial)
RESET = Jumper Close (Reset the Firmware)
1Wire = GND | Data (D6) | 3,3V

[philibertc]

Good evening,
Thank you very much for these contributions!

Just a clarification for the 5V: it is a power line for the "small" electronics of the stove, and I don't know how much it can provide, so I preferred to use the 20V line which is the general power supply.
(I have an official MicroNova WiFi module and although its electronics are in 5V it is powered via a buck converter on the 20V).

For all the additional implementations, I will add them in my version 2 of the PCB.

[geraldFS]

I would like to provide you with the layout (Fritzing).

[philibertc]

I use KiCAD but don't worry, I could do this quickly.

[geraldFS]

Exactly for this reason I executed the supply twice (external 5V either power supply / or via DC / DC from the 18V) plus the possibility to use the internal 5V.

[philibertc]

Hello, here is the V2.
I took some of your ideas (like the screw connector, the possibility to do a reset and to add other components), but I modified and added some things:

• there is a connection between D0 and RST to allow deep sleep (very soon implemented in the firmware)
• the reset can be done with a flat screwdriver easily
• for the addition of components, I preferred not to impose a ready-made wiring for 1Wire, I²C: I leave more freedom here
• for all this smoothing with capacitors, there is no need because people use either the 3.3V input (through a buck converter from 20V) or the USB port. And whether it's in a USB power supply or a buck converter there is the necessary smoothing

[twostroker84]

Hello
I am anxiously waiting for the pcb to be available for sale again.
If you like, contact me as soon as it is available!
Beautiful project
Bye!

[philibertc]

Hello ! @twostroker84
I have started the production of a series of PCBs, I should have them in two weeks
Sincerely,
philibertc

[testeur70]

Hello Philibert,

Thanks you for this great job. I am trying to build your v1 pcb and I wonder where you connect the "IN+" and "IN-" cables from the LM2596. The "IN+" should go to 20 v on the stove ? But the"IN-" can be connected to the GND on the Pcb? I can not see exactly those connections on your tindie pictures.
Thanks for your answer.

[philibertc]

Hello,
IN- must be connected to the GND of the stove, which can be retrieved from the GND at the bottom right of the PCB.

IN+ should be connected to the 20V of the stove, preferably via a resettable fuse.

[testeur70]

Merci
;-)

[phoffi]

With the Buck Converter this could also be a feature for next PCB version?

Soemthing like that mini buck converter, directly soldered on PCB:

https://aliexpress.com/item/32998937888.html

[philibertc]

Hello, yes it could be practical. But these converters don't have a very clean output, and some people prefer to use USB.

[testeur70]

Hello Philibertc, Quel sont les 3 composants entourés sur le pcb de la v2 ( voir photo) ce sont des jumper ? Merci pour ton retour

[philibertc]

Hello, are you talking about the three components marked PC817?

I am speaking in English so that everyone can follow the thread.

[testeur70]

Hello Philiberc, Sorry for asking this question in french, as I havent practice my english for a long time. I know that PC817 are optocoupler. My question is about the modifications you made between V1 and V2. On the picture joined, it is the three red parts I noticed on the PCB. I don't know what thery are ? Jumper or nothing ? Thanks for your answer

[philibertc]

I don't see what image you are talking about, did you forget to attach the picture?
Je ne vois pas de quelle image vous parlez, vous avez oublié de joindre l'image ?
PS: Vous pouvez poser les questions en français, je pourrais rajouter la traduction en éditant vos messages.

[testeur70]

Hello I don't understand why my picture can not be sent. Maybe the size is too big. You can find it following this ink : https://i25.servimg.com/u/f25/19/33/25/06/pcb10.png Thanks for your help

[philibertc]

This one is used to reset the parameters of the microcontroller by putting a flat screwdriver on it, it just replaces a push button.

These two are used to connect male or female pin strips, to connect cables.

The upper one is connected to the upper terminal footprint and the lower one to the lower connector, so you can choose between using a pin strip or screw terminals.

[testeur70]

Thanks for your answer. The explanations are very clear now. Do you have a pictures with all components soldered and Interface connected ?

[philibertc]

I unfortunately only have pictures of version 1:

but you can imagine the new layout with this scheme:

[testeur70]

Thanks

[foxmt]

Hi Philibert

I've ordered you 2 pcb with kit.

I don't understand where 3.3v must be soldered. Does i need a separated 3.3v power ? II thought the 3.3V was provided by the card

[foxmt]

Is 3.3V (Power in), is only a pin test ?

[philibertc]

Hello,
the "Power in" inputs (3V3 and GND) are used to power the circuit without using the micro USB input of the ESP. On one of the 4 pins of the "Serial" port of the stove, there is one capable of powering an external circuit in 20V.
So to power the controller you can use a classic power supply or a LM2596 module to lower the 20V and power the controller through the "Power in" input.

Bests,
philibertc